Sizing tool
Two measurements and about sixty seconds. Tell us how high your receiver sits and how high your coupler sits, and we'll tell you exactly which YakJak tows your trailer level — or tell you straight if neither one fits.
Park on level ground. Load the truck and trailer the way you actually tow them.
We'll email your numbers and your recommended setup so you have them at the shop.
Two measurements
Both numbers come off the same tape measure. Get them on level ground with everything loaded the way you tow, and the math takes care of itself.
Hook your tape on the top inside edge of the receiver opening — the square hole itself, not a ball mount that's already in it — and measure straight down to the ground.
Load the truck the way you tow: passengers, tools, fuel, whatever lives in the bed. A loaded truck squats, and that changes this number by an inch or more.
Crank the tongue jack until the trailer sits level — a cheap bubble level on the frame rail is enough — then measure from the ground to the flat bottom of the coupler, not up inside it.
Load the trailer too. Coolers, gear, batteries, a full water tank. This is the number that decides whether you tow level or nose-high.
Why it matters
Getting the drop right is the cheapest safety upgrade on the whole rig. Getting it wrong is how people end up white-knuckled on the interstate.
Tilt the tongue up and weight migrates behind the trailer axles. That reduces the tongue weight holding the whole thing straight, and sway is what follows. It's the single most common towing setup mistake.
Too much drop loads the front axle of a tandem trailer and unloads the rear. You get uneven tire wear, brakes doing unequal work, and a trailer that bottoms out on driveways.
Within an inch of level puts weight across the axles the way the engineers intended, keeps the coupler pulling in a straight line, and stops your headlights from pointing at the treetops.
Every 2" receiver tube has tolerance built into it, which is why a hitch can be machined perfectly and still knock over a driveway apron. That's why an anti-rattle clamp ships in the box with every YakJak — it clamps onto your receiver and takes the play out of the fit. And if the noise still bugs you, you have 30 days to send the whole thing back, rattle included.
The hitch
Billet aluminum, machined in two sizes and two finishes. Both balls ride on the same post — flip it for the other size. That's the whole product line, and it's deliberate.
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Straight answers
An eighth or a quarter of an inch will not change the answer. These hitches adjust in fixed steps, so unless you are right on the line between two positions, small errors wash out. If you land within an inch of level, you are fine.
Loaded. A truck with people, fuel and gear in the bed squats, and a loaded trailer settles too. Measuring empty can throw you off by more than an inch, which is enough to move you from level to nose-high.
Then nothing we sell fits, and we would rather say so than take your money. Leave your email and we will let you know if we ever build that size. If you tell us the numbers, we will also point you at somebody who does make it.
Then you need rise, not drop. Flip the hitch over and the same drop positions become rise positions. The tool handles this automatically — it will tell you to install it inverted.
Look at your coupler — the size is stamped right on it, almost always 2" or 2-5/16". Both balls come on the hitch, mounted on a reversible post. Pull the pin, flip the post, done.
If your receiver opening is 2" square, yes. That is the size on the overwhelming majority of half-ton trucks and SUVs. We do not currently make a 2.5" or 3" shank.